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Happy New Year each.
Anyone know if Jotun 2 pack hardener is available to buy separately, or has anyone got any knocking about that is no longer needed? Mine has mutated into a clear brick. Also on the subject of hardener any ideas about how to clean out epoxy measuring pump of sticky gel like hardener? Please also note that l have used the word hardener 3 times.....4 now, and never mentioned Viagra. On another note, l see we now have nice little photos next to our names, my grey photofit has a lovely fringe, something l myself have not had for a good 20 years now. |
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It was always there. It's just that our Paul has made it somewhat larger now, so you can make out what it looks like. Change your image to something more realistic by clicking on your username (towards the top right) then, on the menu that appears, "Account settings" and after the screen changes click on "Change your picture". It's best done on a computer rather than phone or tablet as most touch-screen devices don't allow you to manipulate the crop handles to get the desired portion of the uploaded image square.
Greg Chapman
GregAfloat - My Boating Biography |
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In reply to this post by Nesting Ray.
Yes our photos are looking quite scary now
![]() As for hardener Ray you are probably stuffed. It's the most sensitive part and if exposed to air it tends to crystallise rock solid. You will have to buy a fresh batch I suspect. However my Jotun HB Primer and Jotun Polyurethane Top Coat resin is literally 10 years old and thankfully I sealed it well. But Primer solvent had separated so after about 15 minutes of heavy stirring it was a consistent mix and worked fine with the hardener (a new batch I bought a few years ago). Ditto for the white Top Coat but it needed less stirring. It's the dogs doo-dahs for painting boats - I can hardly believe I painted the hull almost 10 years ago. Plenty of scratches from "near misses" that went wrong but otherwise in very good condition....EXCEPT where I forgot to use the primer and one hidden area under the hull where I probably forgot the topcoat hardener. It peeled off down the Thames, but nobody can see it! -Paul |
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In reply to this post by Nesting Ray.
Re cleaning an epoxy pump.
No experience of the process once the hardener has gelled, but I clean my pumps every now and then (like every two or three years) with lots of soapy hot water. Works really well on the hardener, less well on the resin pump but does seem to get there. Have heard people suggest alcohol (not acetone) for cleaning the epoxy pumps. If you do use alcohol on the resin pump I'd put it outside in a tin after you've done the cleaning (or maybe during!) until you're sure the epoxy/alcohol mix is properly inert before disposing of it. Obviously don't run the stuff down the drain as you clean, can set hdeously hard in there. Warming the pump carefully with a heat gun might do something to reliquify the hardener, certainly works on hardened epoxy so don't see why it wouldn't on the components. Again, if alcohol is used I'd suggest doing the heat gun bit and the soaking in alcohol separately. Of course, those ideas are not based on any understanding of the chemistry (failed that O-Level absolutely gloriously) so more learned people than me may have some better grounded advice! Tim.
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In reply to this post by Nesting Ray.
Re cleaning an epoxy pump.
No experience of the process once the hardener has gelled, but I clean my pumps every now and then (like every two or three years) with lots of soapy hot water. Works really well on the hardener, less well on the resin pump but does seem to get there. Have heard people suggest alcohol (not acetone) for cleaning the epoxy pumps. If you do use alcohol on the resin pump I'd put it outside in a tin after you've done the cleaning (or maybe during!) until you're sure the epoxy/alcohol mix is properly inert before disposing of it. Obviously don't run the stuff down the drain as you clean, can set hdeously hard in there. Warming the pump carefully with a heat gun might do something to reliquify the hardener, certainly works on hardened epoxy so don't see why it wouldn't on the components. Again, if alcohol is used I'd suggest doing the heat gun bit and the soaking in alcohol separately. Of course, those ideas are not based on any understanding of the chemistry (failed that O-Level absolutely gloriously) so more learned people than me may have some better grounded advice! Tim.
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Nope. My Hardener Nozzle sometimes clogs up with with what looks like crystallised sugar. I generally give it a wipe with a cloth and a poke with a bit of wire, then a sharp pump spits out any blockage. I think the bigger pictures are a bit scary. |
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IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol) is cheap and wonderful for cleaning off both uncured epoxy, and unmixed epoxy, and what's more it will clean off uncured Sikaflax, which alone makes it worth keeping in the workshop.
It's reasonably non-toxic, the only unpleasant side effect is to remove the natural oils from your skin (it also kills bugs very well, so can be used to sterilise things as well as surgical spirit). It won't attack most plastics, so is safe to use for cleaning lots of things (but check first). It will remove sticky tape residue (with a bit of patience) and is generally one of the most useful solvents to have around. There are lots of suppliers on ebay, for a reasonable price. |
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Thanks for the feedback lads, after washing up this morning( l do it once a week ) l left both pumps in the warm soapy water to languish, then emptied the bowl via the pumps. Worked a treat, thanks Timmo.
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