Centreboard pivot

[james gilchrist]

Dear All,

I would like some advice please.  I have got to the stage where I can fit the centreboard case into my Coot.  I have two choices, I can go down the big bolt route, or I have just purchased a pivot from Classic Marine which is a rod and tube that pass through the case and the centreboard case and are held in position by two tufnol end plates screwed to the case.

I can see classic marines design be easier to waterproof, but I have no experience of this design.  Any comments gratefully recieved.

Cheers

James

[Chris Waite]

Hallo James

I have used the unthreaded shank of a stainless bolt, but capped it with wood pads - permanently epoxy-sealed to the case one side and with a couple or so screws the other, tightened down over silicone or similar sealant, leaving the head proud in a pre-formed cavity in the pad, so that there is something to grab hold of, if and when you need to remove it:



This is the one off 'Tit Willow'; it is rather larger than an ordinary bolt as the ply-cheeked, 6mm stainless sheet plate weighs 53 kilos so I had a hole drilled and threaded in the end with a smaller bolt (not shown), that can be wound in and grabbed to remove the 'pin' itself.  The wood pad is larger than necessary and an odd shape as it also supports a removable cabin sole board.

Has worked on this boat and the smaller version described above on 'Rosie Mae' without any other lining tube or such - both have been in action for well over a decade without problems.  You may wish to epoxy a strengthening plate surrounding the hole on the 'working' side of the case to take a decent length of screw.

Any good?

Chris W.

[Port-Na-Storm]

On the two boats with centreboards i've built so far, I used a similar system to Cee Dubbs.

I drill out the board and case sides over sized at the pivot point, say around 30mm, I then fill these holes with thickened epoxy. I then drill out the epoxy to the size required to fit the bar, which so far has been brass, around 10mm. The theory is that the epoxy acts as a form of bushing and prevents the hole getting bigger through time.
Both ends of the hole are blanked off with ply pieces screwed in place and sealed with silicon.
 
If I need to get the bar out I remove the end blanks, drive it through with a phillips screwdriver, which I leave in place to hold the board until i'm ready to wiggle it out the top of the slot.

seems to work.  

[james gilchrist]

Dear All,

 

Many thanks, I will copy what works for everyone else

 

James

From: Port-Na-Storm [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]>
To: james gilchrist <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, 7 September 2011, 22:47
Subject: Re: Centreboard pivot

On the two boats with centreboards i've built so far, I used a similar system to Cee Dubbs.

I drill out the board and case sides over sized at the pivot point, say around 30mm, I then fill these holes with thickened epoxy. I then drill out the epoxy to the size required to fit the bar, which so far has been brass, around 10mm. The theory is that the epoxy acts as a form of bushing and prevents the hole getting bigger through time.
Both ends of the hole are blanked off with ply pieces screwed in place and sealed with silicon.
 
If I need to get the bar out I remove the end blanks, drive it through with a phillips screwdriver, which I leave in place to hold the board until i'm ready to wiggle it out the top of the slot.

seems to work.  

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