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Well you've done the right thing. Tapered washboards are not recommended as they represent a safety hazard! (says he who went down the tapered route). All hatch openings, that I've ever had the pleasure to step through, rely on having the rear end of the hatch able to lift up and over the top end of the washboard. Trying to put a washboard in behind the closed hatch just seems counter intuitive and a load of hassle. If it were me, I'd make the hatch cover able to tilt upwards by a few mm to clear the washboard top. For that size opening I'd also be considering two, maybe three washboards, the lower one solid, middle with a window and the top with a vent. An alternative upper one containing a flyscreen is especially useful on the river to keep out the biting monsters at night ( I assume one is normally left out in all but the coldest of weather). Alternatively go for the narrow boat style and have a pair of vertically hinged, louvered doors and some hanging bead blinds :-) |
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I pretty much agree with Pete,
Make the middle one out of some smoked perspex, its the easiest way to make a window, just make a template first, ![]() Get one of those stainless or plastic vents and fix it to the top washboard for permanent ventilation. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316-Stainless-Steel-Louvred-Air-Vent-230mm-x-115mm-Boat-Caravan-Motorhome-/271576351116?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f3b36418c Put a slope on the top and bottom edges of the washboards to keep the rain water out. If you're like me you won't have any difficulty making the cover able to lift over the edge of the washboard. Then of course you'll need a hasp and padlock to make it all secure. |
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I never thought of hinged hatches, except the Broads boat style.
Following Paul Fishers plans for the Lynx 16 I have 32ins of brass plate each side for slots in the hatch sides to run along - it's never going to lift without a radical redesign and lots of work. The lifting washboard has defeated everyone, Tony gave up even though I gave him instructions and there is no lock to break! So I'm keeping it simple for the Thames Raid, we can completely redesign her over a few beers. There is nothing a jigsaw can't fix. ![]() -Paul |
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On 26 Apr 2015 at 6:02, Paul (admin) [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:
> > I never thought of hinged hatches, except the Broads boat style. > > Following Paul Fishers plans for the Lynx 16 I have 32ins of brass > plate each side for slots in the hatch sides to run along - it's never > going to lift without a radical redesign and lots of work. > Just widen the slots so it rattles up and down a bit. Works on Little Jim. -- Sail when you can, row when you must, motor when you have to be at work in the morning. Alastair Law Yeovil, England. <http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com> |
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Thanks Al, I love practical solutions. I made the slots with a tight fit. I'll see how the houdini washboard trick works. Paul -------- Original message -------- From: "alopenboat [via UK HBBR Forum]" <[hidden email]> Date: 26/04/2015 14:53 (GMT+00:00) To: "Paul (admin)" <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: But does the board fit? On 26 Apr 2015 at 6:02, Paul (admin) [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote: > > I never thought of hinged hatches, except the Broads boat style. > > Following Paul Fishers plans for the Lynx 16 I have 32ins of brass > plate each side for slots in the hatch sides to run along - it's never > going to lift without a radical redesign and lots of work. > Just widen the slots so it rattles up and down a bit. Works on Little Jim. -- Sail when you can, row when you must, motor when you have to be at work in the morning. Alastair Law Yeovil, England. <http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com> If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
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