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Sculling

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Paul H (admin)

Sculling

Talking offline to Chris W. and Chris P. I'd like to try sculling MilliBee on the Thames Raid as a backup in case the other forms of propulsion go pear shaped or don't seem appropriate.

I'm a complete beginner but Chris W. said a comfortable position is important. I already have a rowlock in a block which could be adjusted left/right using a G-clamp.

My oars are about 7ft.......what next?

cheers
Paul

alopenboat

Re: Sculling

If you want to drive it by hand, standing up, rather than through
ropes (like Chris W), sitting down, then you need to extend your oar.
I believe that Chris P (S) has a clamp from duckworks for this
precise purpose.

My observation of the standing up/sitting down options suggests that
standing up is much more comfortable, and less blister provoking,
over the long term.

On 24 May 2012 at 16:23, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
> Talking offline to Chris W. and Chris P. I'd like to try sculling
> /MilliBee/ as a backup if the other forms of propulsion go pear shaped
> or don't seem appropriate.
>
> I'm a complete beginner but Chris W. said a comfortable position is
> important. I already have a rowlock in a block which could be adjusted
> left/right using a G-clamp.
>
> My oars are about 7ft.......what next?
>
> cheers
> Paul
>
> -----
> http://www.millibee.com
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--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>

Ratcatcherjohn

RE: Sculling

`Morning All, In the unlikely event of total global fuel drought, how long should the oar be and where should the pivot point be? Given that I am around 5` 10" ( no idea what that is in Euros), I would probably be standing up and about a minimum of 3 ft from the transom. I guess the blade must be straight and I would ideally be lengthening and re- blading a trusty "Mirror "oar. Your call gentlemen.

John

(Just for once being serious)

Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 02:10:46 -0700
From: [hidden email]
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: Sculling

If you want to drive it by hand, standing up, rather than through
ropes (like Chris W), sitting down, then you need to extend your oar.
I believe that Chris P (S) has a clamp from duckworks for this
precise purpose.

My observation of the standing up/sitting down options suggests that
standing up is much more comfortable, and less blister provoking,
over the long term.

On 24 May 2012 at 16:23, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://uk-hbbr-forum.967333.n3.nabble.com/Sculling-tp4014401p4014916.html

To unsubscribe from UK HBBR Forum, click here.
NAML

alopenboat

RE: Sculling

I can only tell you about my own personal experience. (I just built
what it said on the plans)

My oar is 3m (10ft) long with the pivot 1.8m (6ft) from the blade
tip. It is curved 30mm (1.2") along it's length. The pivot on the
transom is 580mm (23") above the water. I stand about 1.1m (40")
forward of the transom (though I move about quite a bit)

The pivot is a pin with a ball end which fits into a hole drilled in
the oar.

The blade is 90mm (3.5") wide, flat on top and convex on the
underside.

I have used this for the past 10 years as my normal non-sailing
propulsion and, although it took several hours to get the hang of it
and make reliable progress, it is a very relaxed process as long as
you don't want to go fast.

Anyone who wants is welcome to try it on their craft or have a go on
Little Jim on the Thames or at Beale

On 25 May 2012 at 3:29, Ratcatcherjohn [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
>
> `Morning All, In the unlikely event of total global fuel drought,
> how long should the oar be and where should the pivot point be? Given
> that I am around 5` 10" ( no idea what that is in Euros), I would
> probably be standing up and about a minimum of 3 ft from the transom.
> I guess the blade must be straight and I would ideally be lengthening
> and re- blading a trusty "Mirror "oar. Your call gentlemen.
>
> John
>
> (Just for once being serious)
>

--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>

Ratcatcherjohn

RE: Sculling

Thanks Alastair, Thats given me food for contemplation.

Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 04:50:23 -0700
From: [hidden email]
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: Sculling

I can only tell you about my own personal experience. (I just built
what it said on the plans)

My oar is 3m (10ft) long with the pivot 1.8m (6ft) from the blade
tip. It is curved 30mm (1.2") along it's length. The pivot on the
transom is 580mm (23") above the water. I stand about 1.1m (40")
forward of the transom (though I move about quite a bit)

The pivot is a pin with a ball end which fits into a hole drilled in
the oar.

The blade is 90mm (3.5") wide, flat on top and convex on the
underside.

I have used this for the past 10 years as my normal non-sailing
propulsion and, although it took several hours to get the hang of it
and make reliable progress, it is a very relaxed process as long as
you don't want to go fast.

Anyone who wants is welcome to try it on their craft or have a go on
Little Jim on the Thames or at Beale

On 25 May 2012 at 3:29, Ratcatcherjohn [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://uk-hbbr-forum.967333.n3.nabble.com/Sculling-tp4014401p4015085.html

To unsubscribe from UK HBBR Forum, click here.
NAML

Paul H (admin)

RE: Sculling

John,

Here is the web page for the Duck Works Scullmatix adaptor for a standard oar:

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/gear/scullmatix/

Lots of useful examples on sculling.

I'm sure we could bodge a solution to join the oar to an extension - 6mm stainless rod spaced one foot apart would leave minimal damage to the oar shaft. Scaffold companies might have a similar widget.

-Paul

momist

RE: Sculling

In reply to this post by alopenboat

In my rather limited experience, sculling with an oar through a "sculling notch" in the transom is good for short term get me out of it, but not good for long term use. The twisting of a straight oar gets very tiresome, and friction on the sculling notch is both tiring and causes a lot of wear on both the notch and the oar, or it's collar. The regular users have a curved or bent oar and a suitable swivel mount for a reason.

Chris Partridge

RE: Sculling

In reply to this post by Paul H (admin)

I will bring my Scullmatix with me, with the handle but no oar. I would think an 8ft oar would be about right - the total length would be around 10ft. The advantage the Scullmatix has is that you don't have to twist the handle to turn the blade, it finds its own angle, so it should be less tiring to use. But I don't have all that much experience of it because it needs a boat with a bit of inertia to work properly and mine tend to be light-as-a-feather jobs.