The following are just reminiscences of my youth and probably aren't
relevant but may offer food for thought.
As a youth my family had a Percy Blandford 15ft canvas canoe.
My brother fitted it for sailing with leeboards fastened by a board
clamped across the coaming. It was very successful on lakes and
rivers but as soon as we took it on the sea the leeboard broke. There
were several failure points. As each was beefed up the next went. The
problem was caused by the surging as the boat went over the waves.
Even a complete rebuild failed to completely solve the problem. Surge
loads can be enormous.
The hull was carried on the roof of the car. All the contents
(floorboards, seats, backrests, spray cover, paddles, sail rig,
rudder, leeboards etc) were carried in the boot. It was a major
hassle setting it all up every time and precluded going for a quick
half hour sail. I determined then that any future boat I owned would
be transported with all gear already aboard so it could be dumped
straight into the water at the launch site. This not only speeds
things up but also means that it is difficult to forget anything.
On 11 Jan 2015 at 20:38, mike160304 [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:
>
> RE CENTREBOARDS, etc: I shall start with one pivoting leeboard in my
> Surf 8. I can always cut later for a daggerboard (I don't like them,
> except on water where the depth is reliable) or even a centreboard,
> but a centreboard case and centreboard means more clutter in the
> middle of the boat, and more weight when putting the boat on the
> cartop, whereas a leeboard and even its mounting plate goes in the
> boot/trunk and carries separately to the water. I don't want the
> "carrying weight" of my hull to exceed 50 lb, and I would like it to
> be less. The cut-out plywood so far weighs 22.3 lb.
--
Sail when you can, row when you must, motor
when you have to be at work in the morning.
Alastair Law
Yeovil, England.
<
http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>
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