Tales of Illusion

[Paul H (admin)]

cornishhh wrote

Are you having an open rear,or a step in hatch like the original.

That's a good question - a step in hatch is very sea worthy, but an open rear would not require gymnastic skills to get on-board!

-Paul

[cornishhh]

It might be an idea to try a mockup as best as you can.
I'm the antithisis of gymnastic,but I had no problems getting in and out of Al's Paradox.

[alopenboat]

On 6 Apr 2011 at 14:58, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
>
> cornishhh wrote:
> >
> > Are you having an open rear,or a step in hatch like the original.
> >
>
> That's a good question - a step in hatch is very sea worthy, but an
> open rear would not require gymnastic skills to get on-board!
>

It depends a bit on how you intend to use the boat. In my early days
in Little Jim I was not too picky about the conditions I went out in,
but I never had water coming onto the aft deck. If I could be
bothered to make any major mods to the boat a removable rear window
would be one of them, but that would waste valuable sailing time so I
doubt if I ever will.

--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,      
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>          

[alopenboat]

On 6 Apr 2011 at 14:58, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
>
> cornishhh wrote:
> >
> > Are you having an open rear,or a step in hatch like the original.
> >
>
> That's a good question - a step in hatch is very sea worthy, but an
> open rear would not require gymnastic skills to get on-board!
>

It depends a bit on how you intend to use the boat. In my early days
in Little Jim I was not too picky about the conditions I went out in,
but I never had water coming onto the aft deck. If I could be
bothered to make any major mods to the boat a removable rear window
would be one of them, but that would waste valuable sailing time so I
doubt if I ever will.

--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,      
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>          

[Chris Waite]

Looks fine to me Paulie

Practicality has to overrule aesthetics to a point and it's no good hurting that much (and you would), just to be beautiful.

Is 'Illusion' the chosen method of Thames transport this year then?  

Cee Dubbaya

[Paul H (admin)]

Neil, Al, Chris

Thanks for the feedback.

The plan is a canvas top made by my seamtress, so with strong frames I can leave the rear open and the canvas can roll down the back. Then later I can add a removable window, which is a great idea.

Yes Cee Dubs Illusion will be the modus operandi for the Thames Raid. Heaven knows if she will be ready buts that's all part of the adventure......how many chickens do we need to sacrifice to get a strong Westerly?  

-Paul

 

[LASER41420]

Hi,

not too strong a westerley please, a decent breeze every day will do me just fine

Steve

--- On Thu, 7/4/11, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

From: adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: Tales of Illusion
To: "LASER41420" <[hidden email]>
Date: Thursday, 7 April, 2011, 13:41

Neil, Al, Chris

Thanks for the feedback.

The plan is a canvas top made by my seamtress, so with strong frames I can leave the rear open and the canvas can roll down the back. Then later I can add a removable window, which is a great idea.

Yes Cee Dubs Illusion will be the modus operandi for the Thames Raid. Heaven knows if she will be ready buts that's all part of the adventure......how many chickens do we need to sacrifice to get a strong Westerly?  

-Paul

 

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[Chris Waite]

Hi,
not too strong a westerley please, a decent breeze every day will do me just fine
Steve

....So you don't want "the blown spume flying" then Steve?

I suppose it probably wouldn't be quite the thing on the Thames

Chris W

[Paul H (admin)]

After a lot of trials and head scratching I settled on curved carlins to support side decks as the basis for side panels. It took me hours to figure out the carlins should be curved; ironically I discovered 20 minutes ago the Enigma 460 is built the same way!

There is full width at the rear for moving around and cooking, with a fair curve towards the front to generate less windage:



Below the cabin sides have been dropped in place, you have to imagine them curved flush with the side decks. The picture is slightly misleading as the outer deck edge has been roughly cut oversize and the side panels will be 10-15mm outside the inner curve:



Because of time constraints a hard cabin is on the back burner - bad weather rain is unlikely on the Thames Raid. I'll add a kayak style lip to attach a canvas cover for sleeping. We recovered an old frame tent from a skip at a Scout centre and cut it down for a boom tent for MilliBee; there is enough spare canvas and plastic windows for Illusion.

The carlins are recycled from the neighbour's fence panels that he replaced far too early (eco points++ ).

Paul

[Paul H (admin)]

Chaps,

All your ribbing about rowing round in circles and "as directional as a dog bowl" has sunk in.

A careful bit of keyhole surgery has started the retro-fit skeg. The 2x1 post will be securely glued and screwed to the transom, with by a 2x1 cross member mitred, then planking in 6mm ply, then finally rounded with a 1/2 inch router bit.

Rumour has it that its faster to row in a straight line, which will be a pleasant change.



-Paul

[gmatkin]

Be prepared to move your rig aft a little - or maybe take a bit off your rudder blade - to get your rig/hull/foils geometry right...

Gav

--- On Tue, 12/4/11, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

From: adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]>
Subject: The Mighty Skeg
To: "gmatkin" <[hidden email]>
Date: Tuesday, 12 April, 2011, 23:28

Chaps,

All your ribbing about rowing round in circles and "as directional as a dog bowl" has sunk in.

A careful bit of keyhole surgery has started the retro-fit skeg. The 2x1 post will be securely glued and screwed to the transom, with by a 2x1 cross member mitred, then planking in 6mm ply, then finally rounded with a 1/2 inch router bit.

Rumour has it that its faster to row in a straight line, which will be a pleasant change.



-Paul

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[alopenboat]

Doesn't the rudder already occupy the the rear part of the new skeg?


On 12 Apr 2011 at 15:28, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
> Chaps,
>
> All your ribbing about rowing round in circles and "as directional as
> a dog bowl" has sunk in.
>
> A careful bit of keyhole surgery has started the retro-fit skeg. The
> 2x1 post will be securely glued and screwed to the transom, with by a
> 2x1 cross member mitred, then planking in 6mm ply, then finally
> rounded with a 1/2 inch router bit.
>
> Rumour has it that its faster to row in a straight line, which will be
> a pleasant change.
>
> http://uk-hbbr-forum.967333.n3.nabble.com/file/n2813640/MightySkeg.jpg
>
>
> -Paul

--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,      
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>          

[Paul H (admin)]

alopenboat wrote

Doesn't the rudder already occupy the the rear part of the new skeg?

Al,

The rudder stock overlaps the transom but not the blade. I'll trim the stock to clear the skeg in the conventional way.

-Paul

[Paul H (admin)]

Here she is decked:

[Paul H (admin)]

I have a problem on Illusion trying to seal the gap between the mast and the deck, to keep water out of the cabin. For the Thames Raid the mast will need to be removed for low bridges and lifted or removed at night for sleeping.

Can anybody suggest how to seal the gap?  

Matt uses a concentric tube attached to the deck along with duck tape, but I can't think of any suitable material for the outer tube nor a way to fix it (the mast diameter is 52mm)



cheers
Paul

[Port-Na-Storm]

What Diameter is the mast?

I'm thinking of the doh-nut that fits between loo seats and close coupled cisterns.

Anyway it isn't going to rain on the Thames Raid........................................  

[Jeremy]

A bit of moped or maybe fat mountain bike inner tube might do the trick.  Cable tie it to the mast to get a good seal but leave it loose over the up-stand tube, then roll it back on itself, reverse condom style, when you want to pull the mast out.

It doesn't really need to seal, I'd guess, just deflect water that's running down the mast, so you could probably get away with a fairly rigid sliding collar that was sealed to the mast and just deflects water out and over the up-stand tube.  You may be able to make something up from some drainpipe offcuts and a spacer ring that glues to the mast.

Jeremy

[Chris Partridge]

Clip the edge of the tent to the coaming round the cockpit - a lot easier to do and no mast problem.

[Paul H (admin)]

All,

Thanks for the ideas. The inner tube and loo doh-nut are good candidates for the seal.

However the key problem though is I don't have an up-stand and can't think how to attach it securely to the ply deck. Time is very limited because lots of things need to be sorted for ABBA (which I might have to pull out of) and the Thames Raid.

The mast is 52mm max OD. Shed drain pipe is around 2" so too small, the next standard size is 68mm.

-Paul

[alopenboat]

Surely all you need is something to move the water out from the mast
so it drips onto the deck clear of the hole, where the curve of the
deck will direct it away.

You could cut up a plastic funnel (or drinks bottle?) and fix it to
the mast with silicon sealer.


On 31 May 2011 at 2:56, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
> All,
>
> Thanks for the ideas. The inner tube and loo doh-nut are good
> candidates for the seal.
>
> However the key problem though is I don't have an up-stand and can't
> think how to attach it securely to the ply deck. Time is very limited
> because lots of things need to be sorted for ABBA (which I might have
> to pull out of) and the Thames Raid.
>
> The mast is 52mm max OD. Shed drain pipe is around 2" so too small,
> the next standard size is 68mm.
>
> -Paul
>
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--
Hoping for calm nights

Alastair Law,      
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>