epoxy/paint/varnish

[Peter Nobes]

It was good to bump into several of you at Beale Park.  My skiff is nearing completion so I was picking peoples’ brains about paint etc.  My stitch-and-tape boats have been soaked in varnol before painting and varnishing, but as there is so much end-grain ply exposed on my clinker boat I thought I would coat it in epoxy first.  However Andy Vowles of Robbins told me that if you coat with epoxy you can then only use two-part paints and varnishes.  Any thoughts on this?  The single-pack Toplac paint and Schooner varnish I used before seem to have stuck to the epoxy fillets and the epoxy/fibreglass tape on my canoe.  And the Dulux I used on my dinghy mostly stuck ok to the fillets and tape.

Do I need to coat in epoxy or will Varnol soak in and protect the end-grain?

Thanks
Peter

[Timmo]

Some random thoughts, offered with no pretence at real expertise!

One issue with epoxy is it's dislike of exposure to sunshine so if you do use it it will need covering with paint or a lot of UV protective varnish. 

Varnol does soak in and protects well, but will need topping up to maintain the protection. Thinned varnish would also soak in and may set a bit more solidly once in there, will still need annual topping up I think. Oil and Varnol type finishes are easier to top up than varnish or paint.

A thin epoxy will soak in better than a thick one and I think warming the wood first helps too (something about it sucking the epoxy in as it cools. Probably also applies to the varnol/varnish solution.)

Epoxy does add weight, possibly noticeable if you coat the whole boat.

I've painted over epoxy with two pack paint, one pack marine paints with undercoat, Dulux weathershield (also with undercoat) and a wide variety of single pot varnishes. Provided the epoxy is clear of amine blush and properly keyed all those finishes have stuck perfectly well. They've produced very rough results, but that's down to my skill in applying them.

For my lapstrake builds (all stored ashore under cover) I've sealed the laps of the planks with epoxy fillets on the outside because it creates a rounder profile that paint sticks to better. Inside the boat I've simply sealed with varnol or oil (normally decking oil of some sort) and topped up the finish regularly. The top of the sheer strake is sealed with a fillet of wood (fixed with polyurethane glue) to match gunwhales and inwhales. End grain of the planking at the stern of my Acorn Skiff was sealed with varnish. The end grain at the bow (and bow and stern of canoe shaped boats) was sealed when the planks were fixed to the stem. Not sure if you have more end grain showing anywhere that would need different treatment.

End of random thoughts!

Good to see you at Beale.

On 10 Jun 2015, at 16:30, Peter Nobes [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

It was good to bump into several of you at Beale Park.  My skiff is nearing completion so I was picking peoples’ brains about paint etc.  My stitch-and-tape boats have been soaked in varnol before painting and varnishing, but as there is so much end-grain ply exposed on my clinker boat I thought I would coat it in epoxy first.  However Andy Vowles of Robbins told me that if you coat with epoxy you can then only use two-part paints and varnishes.  Any thoughts on this?  The single-pack Toplac paint and Schooner varnish I used before seem to have stuck to the epoxy fillets and the epoxy/fibreglass tape on my canoe.  And the Dulux I used on my dinghy mostly stuck ok to the fillets and tape.

Do I need to coat in epoxy or will Varnol soak in and protect the end-grain?

Thanks
Peter

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[alopenboat]

Hi Peter,

I used Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 primer over the epoxy on my Paradox,
then over-coated with B&Qs best. It worked OK for me.


On 10 Jun 2015 at 8:30, Peter Nobes [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

>
>
> It was good to bump into several of you at Beale Park.  My skiff is
> nearing completion so I was picking peoples´ brains about paint etc.
>  My stitch-and-tape boats have been soaked in varnol before painting
> and varnishing, but as there is so much end-grain ply exposed on my
> clinker boat I thought I would coat it in epoxy first.  However Andy
> Vowles of Robbins told me that if you coat with epoxy you can then
> only use two-part paints and varnishes.  Any thoughts on this?  The
> single-pack Toplac paint and Schooner varnish I used before seem to
> have stuck to the epoxy fillets and the epoxy/fibreglass tape on my
> canoe.  And the Dulux I used on my dinghy mostly stuck ok to the
> fillets and tape.
>
> Do I need to coat in epoxy or will Varnol soak in and protect the
> end-grain?
>
> Thanks
> Peter
>
>
>
>
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--
Sail when you can, row when you must, motor
when you have to be at work in the morning.

Alastair Law
Yeovil, England.
<http://www.little.jim.freeuk.com>

[Port-Na-Storm]

Hi Peter.
Good to see you on Sunday.
When I plank up my clinker boats I use up any spare thickened epoxy by running a thin fillet into the plank lands.
I do the same on the inside when its been turned over.
This seals all the end grain on the planks. The hood ends at the transom are also treated with epoxy.

I use up any neat epoxy when building by painting it onto the ply planks.

Any gaps and bare patches are covered before painting.
I then rub it well back with 80-120 grit paper prior to priming.

I've never used two pack and haven't had any problems with proper boat enamel, I've previously used Blakes, now Hemple.

Two or three build coats of primer/undercoat to get a really solid base, rubbed back with 120g paper, then a couple of finish coats.

Hope this helps.
Grum.

[Peter Nobes]

Thank you all! 

Best

Peter

On 10 June 2015 at 19:35, Port-Na-Storm [via UK HBBR Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Hi Peter.
Good to see you on Sunday.
When I plank up my clinker boats I use up any spare thickened epoxy by running a thin fillet into the plank lands.
I do the same on the inside when its been turned over.
This seals all the end grain on the planks. The hood ends at the transom are also treated with epoxy.

I use up any neat epoxy when building by painting it onto the ply planks.

Any gaps and bare patches are covered before painting.
I then rub it well back with 80-120 grit paper prior to priming.

I've never used two pack and haven't had any problems with proper boat enamel, I've previously used Blakes, now Hemple.

Two or three build coats of primer/undercoat to get a really solid base, rubbed back with 120g paper, then a couple of finish coats.

Hope this helps.
Grum.

Port-Na-Storm

http://port-na-storm.blogspot.com/

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