Hi Michael,
This is what I do. Its not necessarily the right way, but its my way.
If it sounds patronising it isn't meant to be, its just that you said metalwork is a mystery.
Firstly if Moray McPhail at Classic Marine says screws at 4" centres then that's what to do, then if the thing falls off you can blame him. I suspect that the additional number of screws he is likely to sell won't make tuppence worth of difference to his profits. I think it was Moray who told me to drill before bending.
Also, as Moray took a significant part in running the CCC at Beale last year we need to keep in with him. We may need to borrow his marquee if its wet again this year.
The first time I fitted a keel band I had the boat the right way up as it was one of the last things I did. The next time I did it I painted the boat before turning her over, then fitted the keel band. I can recommend the latter but I appreciate that's probably not much help at this stage.
Now decide where you want the screw holes to go on the boat. In other words you don't want to start drilling at the centreboard case and end up with an untidy unevenly spaced set of holes at the top of the stem. Measure and mark in pencil on the boat where you want them to be.
About bending the brass strip. DO NOT HIT IT WITH A HAMMER. The hammer is likely to bounce back and hit you in the forehead, and when you finally come round the brass will be exactly the the same shape it was before you hit it, and probably still vibrating like a schoolboy's ruler.
Bend it with firm steady pressure. I reckon your hands are the best thing as you can feel what's going on, possibly aided by a wooden block.
Drilling can be a real fiddle. Once you have decided where the holes need to go, centre-punch the holes with a good sharp punch. Hit the punch sharply, once, with a good heavy hammer. Only once! hitting it a second time usually results in a second punch hole where you don't want it as the punch will bounce.
As Paul suggests start drilling at the C/B case. and as you suggest, well, pretty much follow your own instructions in para 2. Use the boat as the template and gradually bend the strip round using firm even pressure close to the stem.
Drill your holes, through the brass and into the wood, the correct size as pilot holes for the screws. You may need to ease the holes in the brass, with a slightly bigger drill to stop the screw necks binding. They will also need to be countersunk. So potentially three different drilling operations.
I found these very helpfull
combined-drill-and-countersinksI'm not sure there is any advantage in bending the brass over the stem head. Each to his own.
A few of the ancient clinker rowing boats at our club have very fancy ends on the brass. They have been split into three and a Fleur-de-Lys motif created by curling the outer parts outwards, and flattening the centre part which is then drilled for a screw. Personally I think that's just showing off.
If you do want to bend it over the stem-head put a piece of metal strip between the brass and the wood at the top of the stem and clamp it in place. This will avoid damaging the stem and help get a tight right angle. Then using another bar or piece of hardwood pressing against the brass push it over the top.
To give some shape to the end of the brass you can either just square it off and chamfer the end, or round it off into a semi circle. A file will do this or my favourite tool the Angle Grinder can be utilised if you are very delicate.
Emery cloth will polish up the brass and get rid of file marks etc.
These
Flap Discs are basically lazy boy's emery cloth and fit in your drill or Angle Grinder.
I think that's it. Take your time and have fun!
Cheers
Graham
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