On a shoestring in a shoebox.

[Nesting Ray.]

Well that's it.       FInished.    I think,    dagger board made painted and dropped in.




I have used a bungie cord with notches cut in aft edge of  dagger board to keep it in required position.
An idea which l think Graham suggested a few Months back in answer to another post.
   Next l need to work on a method of getting it on and off the roof of the car solo. I have no room for a trailer, so car topping is the only way to get to water. I have ideas that need to be tried, the fact that it comes in 2 sections helps with the weight. My muscles are not like Popeye's any more, or never were.

[Alan]

....and the rudder looks smart too.
Here is my method of getting a boat on the roof rack:
http://uk-hbbr-forum.967333.n3.nabble.com/roofrack-loader-tp4025681.html

[Paul H (admin)]

She looks nice Ray - I like the combination of white and natural finish on the thwart.

cheers Paul

[Nesting Ray.]

Thanks Paul, and thanks Alan.
Also thanks Alan for your link on getting your car under your boat, l have seen this kind of setup on utube. But l quite like the method monist came up with for putting his 7'_11" y-emma on his roof bars. In his photos he uses a removable rooftop extension to slide the upturned boat on from the back of the car, brilliant!! Mine is 10', but comes in handy bitesize chunks. I am going to make a mockup and give it a try, remember l live in a small terraced house and will be using a narrow back street to load up.

[momist]

Hi Ray,  glad you like the idea.  Looking at the side-load method, I can see it is more appropriate for a saloon car, with that long boot in the way . . .
If you are making a fitting to hook under the roof rack, like mine, remember to cushion the lower rails adequately or you could scratch the roof.  I shaped the wood to the curvature of the roof to evenly spread the load, then added some of that draught proofing rubber tape to the underside as padding.  It usually comes as a double strip which can be torn in half lengthways, I used it still in the double form.  
To be honest, my 'roller' doesn't actually roll (too much friction in the holes) so the boat slides up over it's curved surface.  Although mine is a an old spinnaker pole or similar, fished out of the sea, any strong pole will do and it doesn't need to be round, although a curved shiney surface will be best.
The two side bars and the two cross bars are just mortised together with a tight fit, and knock apart for storage/transport.  Mine were made of old pallet wood, as a prototype that never needed improving :-)  .

Good luck!

[mike160304]

Thanks Ray, it's good to see this amount of detail. What's a brief description of the design, or is that in a previous thread?
Regards,
Mike

[mike160304]

Whoops, sorry Ray, ignore my question, I thought your post was a new one in a new thread, I now see that there are 4 pages of it.
Mike

[Nesting Ray.]

Thanks for that monist. Mine is an estate car, so the idea of loading from the rear is the way forward (so to speak). I have started making a mockup from some old bits of 3x2" scant to see if it works, if it does, like your pallet wood, it will probably never get to the polished oak and brass screw stage.

[Nesting Ray.]

Finally got around to making a removable roof rack to allow boat transportation. Made from ex-studded wall 3x2s, it fits on and between the roof bars. I can load and unload the boat in 2 separate sections by myself,( while my strength holds up).

It takes me around 15 minutes from shed to car, tied on and ready to go.






And around 15 from car to water.








So no excuses now, for not using it, if it ever stops raining.