MilliBee with a haircut?

[Chris Waite]

Paulie, I'm stonkingly proud of you
 
I was beginning to think you were imitating our Town Council, "Forever Amber"; but this is magnificent!

Why the two stages though?  With half as much, rather than twice as much work again, you could have her slim, trim and able to to limbo under the nearest pontoon; negative rig of course.

Sub-assistant Secretary to the LTA (Lid-Trimmers Association)

[Paul H (admin)]

Sub-assistant Secretary to the LTA,

I was a tad nervous but as they say, "the first cut is the deepest"!

The Beale Park jolly is not far away, but now I have a super-efficient rainwater collection device. I must pack my wellies in case the water gets deep.

Where can I buy a waterproof sleeping bag?

-Paul

[Timmo]

Definitely progress. Admire your courage making the first cut, looks like a good result.

Re a waterproof sleeping bag, whilst not necessarily a serious request I can't help responding: I do find a breathable bivi bag a reassurance when sleeping aboard, under a tarp or even in a small tent. 

http://www.mountainwarehouse.com/travel/luggage-accessories/bag-covers/bivvy-bag-p7269.aspx?ism=0&cl=BLACK

Just means that condensation drips, occasional leaks, etc. have no impact on sleeping comfort and you aren't left worrying how to dry your sleeping bag out. Great peace of mind. Means you only really need to cover your head if bivouacking (hope that's spelt right, it's not in my dictionary at all!) 

Tim.

On 7 May 2013, at 17:52, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

Where can I buy a waterproof sleeping bag?

[Paul H (admin)]

Timmo,

Thanks for the support and the bivy bag link - they look ideal for boating.


All,

I've made a few quick measurements and if the front is kept at 45 degrees:

1) the cabin length can reduced by 16in at the sides

2) the foredeck can be 8 1/4in longer at the centre, 16in longer either side
   That will tip the balance on space for storing a 5kg Bruce anchor and chain. Currently there is not enough space - also she benefits from weight forward.

3) The roof length and foredeck length will be roughly similar, which will look more "balanced" like the YMS.



So that begs the question - what is the ideal angle of the cabin front?   Traditionally the front is vertical like the Yachting Monthly Senior:




However the Cabin Police have outlawed vertical faces for aerodynamic reasons that I agree with.

So should the angle be 45 degrees or slightly higher or lower?  (40 degrees adds 2in to the foredeck length)

-Paul

[Timmo]

What looks good?

Not a method rooted in scientific wind tunnel tests but with boats it often seems true that looking good accompanies performing well.

Some more computer modelling required (or clamping bits of ply to the structure to experiment with lines.)

Tim.

On 8 May 2013, at 13:26, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

what is the ideal angle of the cabin front?  

So should the angle be 45 degrees or higher or lower?

-Paul

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NAML

[Paul H (admin)]

Hard work over the weekend has paid off

Drum roll........

My trusty Bosch multi-tool with oscillating blade was ideal for making thin, neat, surgical cuts. It paid for itself with the plunge cuts between the 18mm arch and side panels - no other tool could do it:



The easiest way to remove the paint, for re-gluing later, was a hot air gun followed by heavy grit sandpaper.

The bulkhead is easy to shorten

Thin accurate cuts around the lengthwise roof joist (top left) were easy to make. I'll glue a cleat 3in below the curved roof batten then chop out a 3in section, so the roof batten can drop onto the new cleat. This will leave the curved roof assembly intact and a strong joint will rebuild the bulkhead 3in shorter:

It's a simple as using a tin opener

Continuing around the roof tin-opener style the remaining cuts were made with a jigsaw - I cut just below the outer cleats at the top edge of the cabin. The Bosch multi-tool made 6mm plunge cuts through the 6mm sides, stopping short of cutting into the arch - again impossible with any other tool.

The final result

......crash of cymbal......Nothing but gravity is keeping the roof in place!

Why 3in lower?

The outer cleat and sides are 26mm thick angled at a consistent 20 degrees. If the roof drops 3in the distance between sides increases to the point where the cleat will now fit inside the side panels*.

To think of it another way imagine blocks of stone sticking out several feet from the sides of the Great Pyramid - if you could lower the slice containing the stones down it would eventually fit entirely inside the wider base of the pyramid.

-Paul


PS: *draw a right angled triangle, 26mm divided by sin(20) is 76mm or 3in.

[Port-Na-Storm]

Brilliant,  can’t wait until the next instalment.

 

Grum

 

From: adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: 13 May 2013 23:18
To: Port-Na-Storm
Subject: Re: MilliBee with a haircut?

 

Hard work over the weekend has paid off

Drum roll........

My trusty Bosch multi-tool with oscillating blade was ideal for making thin, neat, surgical cuts. It paid for itself with the plunge cuts between the 18mm arch and side panels - no other tool could do it:



The easiest way to remove the paint, for re-gluing later, was a hot air gun followed by heavy grit sandpaper.

The bulkhead is easy to shorten

Thin accurate cuts around the lengthwise roof joist (top left) were easy to make. I'll glue a cleat 3in below the curved roof batten then chop out a 3in section, so the roof batten can drop onto the new cleat. This will leave the curved roof assembly intact and a strong joint will rebuild the bulkhead 3in shorter:

It's a simple as using a tin opener

Continuing around the roof tin-opener style the remaining cuts were made with a jigsaw - I cut just below the outer cleats at the top edge of the cabin. The Bosch multi-tool made 6mm plunge cuts through the 6mm sides, stopping short of cutting into the arch - again impossible with any other tool.

The final result

......crash of cymbal......Nothing but gravity is keeping the roof in place!

Why 3in lower?

The outer cleat and sides are 26mm thick angled at a consistent 20 degrees. If the roof drops 3in the distance between sides increases to the point where the cleat will now fit inside the side panels. To think of it another way imagine blocks of stone sticking out 4ft from the sides of the Great Pyramid - if you could lower the slice containing the stones vertically down it would eventually fit entirely inside the wider base of the pyramid.


-Paul

http://www.millibee.com

 

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NAML

[Timmo]

That's real progress.

Very neat job. She's ging to look much leaner and fitter.

Tim.

On 13 May 2013, at 23:17, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

Hard work over the weekend has paid off

Drum roll........

[Paul H (admin)]

Good progress shortening the port bulkhead

I drew an line inside the cabin exactly 3in below the roof batten, then roughly cut out 2 3/4in which will be planed later. There was not enough time to cut the starboard side but this picture shows how the cabin rear can drop down, when both sides are cut:

The plan takes shape

Here the outer batten has been dropped inside the side panels. The cabin is skewed because the other side is not cut, everything needs planing and trimming to size, but you can see the principle in action:



A close-up photo shows more detail. The eagle eyed readers will have noticed the trailing edges have been chopped off - I think that immediately gave her cleaner lines.

A picture inside reveals all

See how the outer batten now fits snugly inside the side panel! The lower arch needs to be about 10mm lower, then a square cut out which will result in large area for the glue joint and greater strength:

It really does work!

I took a few photos to show how the lowered roof and sides fit together like a glove:





Work finished at beer o'clock.

-Paul

[Timmo]

She's going to be very strong. Just need to seal the top of the sides well. Can't wait to see the new lean Millibee. Are you aiming for Beale/Hairpin raid?

Tim.

On 15 May 2013, at 23:32, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

Good progress shortening the port bulkhead

[Paul H (admin)]

Advice Please!

I would like some advice please on the best way to join the arch back together. The top and bottom halves now overlap because the roof has dropped 3in/76mm. The arch is 18mm thick laminated from 2x9mm. I have painstakingly stripped paint with a hot air gun, where strengthening plates will overlap the final butt joint.






The top half includes the batten that was glued to the roof and sides - in these pictures the weight is taken by that batten resting on the lower half of the arch.

Plan A

Plan A is to cut a rectangle (76mm deep) from the inner corner of the bottom half, then the top half could slot into that rectangle without any cutting. The advantage of that is the large glue area around 2 sides of the rectangle and the width of the batten. My only concern is that cutting the rectangle leaves only 26mm width under the batten.

In all cases the curve of the top half will be blended into the bottom with a triangular fillet.

Plan B to Z

There are many other options like cutting a common diagonal line in both halves, or cutting the top to match the bottom.

The corners will be under maximum stress - compression on the inside edge, tension on the outside edge. In Plan A the tension is taken by the (strong) shear strength of the 76mm long epoxy joint and the sides glued to the batten.

Suggestions

Please tell me your suggestions about joining the two halves.

cheers
Paul

[Port-Na-Storm]

I would adopt a Belt and Braces approach.

The Belt; Action plan A.

The Braces; I'd glue a plywood plate across the join turning it into a butt joint. Do this on the forward side, so that it would effectively be hidden from view. As well as strengthening the joint it'll help to align it while the glue goes off.

Have fun.

[Paul H (admin)]

A few more pictures..

I haven't trimmed the side fully - the top of the side panel has to be planed, from 1/2in at the front tapering back to a few mm at the rear, also the front window will be cut in half by the new curved front. You can just see the diagonal cut to join top and bottom of the arch - that was the easiest solution in the end.
Scroll up to the old cabin photos and it was a real shocker! Big and ugly!




A view from the back (apologies for the poor quality pictures, I need to invest in a new DSLR now that daughter#1 has taken hers away). Better per-portioned.



And the front. Definitely better after lowering.



A canoeist's view, imagine the front window cut in half and the side trimmed lower.



It might be worth shortening the cabin another 2in?


Why is the paint peeling off the outwhales?? I forgot the undercoat and the spruce/pine didn't absorb the epoxy well enough.

-Paul

[Paul H (admin)]

A bit more trimming of the front.....to the sound of shattering perspex. Its a shame about that front window, I spent a lot of time on it :



You can estimate the deck extending back and the curved front at 45 degrees. Maybe the remaining front window should be chopped in half for better overall balance? There is still 5mm to plane from the top of the sides, but bad light stopped play. {Edit: preview of deck and front added }

Its wonderful having the lower cabin and no bilge cases - simple things like being able to easily see over the cabin and reach over the top. Visibility is better from the cockpit and according to CDubs experimental rigging a genoa clew would be at the blue dot - just a tad below the cabin line and no junk in the way when going about. [I'll fit a genoa track just below the window].

So what do the Cabin Police think of this latest side shot? Speak now or forever hold your peace!

cheers
Paul

[Timmo]

That looks good.

Are you just deleting the front window? Think you can, the back one will allow plenty of light to the end where your head will be.

The advantages to sight lines and the benefits to rigging will give you a lot of pleasure when she's back afloat again.

Tim.

On 20 May 2013, at 22:25, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

So what do the Cabin Police think of this latest side shot? Speak now or forever hold your peace!

cheers
Paul

[Chris Waite]

You' got it Paulie!

You don't need the forward, side-window, so lose it; then close her up....

And go sailing

Cabin Police III

[Port-Na-Storm]

Excellent!
You've converted your People Carrier into a two door hatchback.

Now get glueing, Chop Chop!

Cabin Police IV

[Paul H (admin)]

Chaps,

Thank you all for the support. Chris and Tim, yes the remains of the front window will be filled in with ply. The next step before gluing is an oversized 4mm panel to check how the curved front looks.


Are there any cosmetic improvements to make? There is room to shorten the cabin by another 2in-3in, which might improve the balance between foredeck length and cabin length.


If you compare her to the YM Senior the cabin lengths are more or less balanced, but MilliBee's cabin is further forward as her tabernacle is on the roof; the YM Senior tabernacle is on the foredeck hence the cabin is slightly further back.

cheers
Paul

[Paul H (admin)]

Here is an interesting blend of the YMS outline overlaid on MilliBee's picture:




Scaling the 16ft down down to 14ft scales the cabin height, but we can't scale people also! Hence I have a slightly higher cabin. The hull shape and tabernacle position are remarkably similar....

The YMS centreboard is immediately under the mast, too far forward as many reports say she has too much weather helm. Mine is a foot behind the mast, like the Enterprise, longer with more wiggle room. One chap fitted a bowsprit to the YMS to fix the weather helm.

Cee Dubs will confirm that the crew should be as far forward as possible, all together things are looking good.

-Paul

[Timmo]

Now I think you're in danger of over fiddling.

It's not a Yachting World Senior, you've cribbed some ideas but better not to keep going trying to copy more elements that work on one hull but will increasingly be less relevant and less pretty on the Lynx.

Close her up and go sailing! She'll look great and sail much better!

On 21 May 2013, at 16:12, adminHBBR [via UK HBBR Forum] wrote:

Here is an interesting blend of the YMS outline overlaid on MilliBee's picture: